Tag Archives: jig

Chandelier from Romeo and Juliet

As part of the new year, I’m going to be digging through my archives of props I’ve built in previous years. The first one is a chandelier I built for Romeo and Juliet. It was one of my first prop projects in graduate school, and the first prop I built which involved welding.

The first part I made was the body dish. I turned it on the lathe out of poplar. The outside needed to be a specific diameter, as we shall see shortly. I also drilled a hole through the center for the hanging hardware and wires to go through.

Turning the body dish
Turning the body dish
Body Dish
Body Dish

Next I cut a circle out of 3/4″ plywood to use as a template for the main ring. I made that out of several strips of what we call “wiggle wood”, which is a bendable plywood. I wrapped one layer around the circle, then glued another layer around the first one, with the seams offset so they would hold the circular shape. I added a thinner strip to the top and bottom to mimic molding.

The chandelier in the jig
The chandelier in the jig

I left the chandelier in the jig and marked the center of the circle template. I then added a little stand with a smaller circle on top, also centered. I placed the body dish on top of that. This ensured that the body dish was centered within the ring, level, and at the correct height above the ring.

See that metal ring in the above picture? That is why I needed my body dish to be a specific diameter; the ring needs to sleeve on the outside of it. I cut the ring from a section of large pipe that was laying around. On the right side of the picture, you can see some metal brackets bunched together. These will be spread evenly around the wiggle wood ring and hold the cups for the candles. They will then have a metal rod welded to them, with the other end welded to the metal ring on the body dish.

The chandelier after the welding is done
The chandelier after the welding is done

Ta-da! I next ran wires out the bottom of the cups, along the rods, and up through the center. The only thing left to do was glue the electric candles into the cups, which you can only do with a bushy beard.

Gluing the candles in
Gluing the candles in

Actually, what I meant to say was that the only thing left to do was hang a big disco ball from the center, because every chandelier needs a disco ball.

Final Chandelier
Final Chandelier

Notice in the picture that I made more than one chandelier. The template and jig not only allowed me to get all the shapes and spacings correct, it also enabled me to duplicate the same prop without having to remeasure everything.

Steel Headboard for “In the Wake”

The next play to open here at the Public Theater is “In the Wake”, by Lisa Kron. One of the props they needed was a headboard. The design was based off of an existing style of headboard, but as the bed was a custom size to allow it to fit between the scenery, the headboard would also need to be a custom size. In addition, the bed moved to the middle of the stage where the headboard would be freestanding, and I was told the actresses would be leaning against it. For those reasons, a store-bought headboard would not fit the requirements. It had to be built, and it had to be built out of steel.

Since the design of the headboard was based around a repetitive pattern, the first thing I did was break it apart to make a cut list. I divided the pieces so the cut list would be as straight forward as possible, with as few angles as I could get away with. I managed to come up with a way where most of the pieces were straight cuts, and only a third of the pieces would need 45 degree angle cuts.

All of the pieces of steel
All of the pieces of steel

Before I could begin welding, I needed to create a jig. As you may already know, a jig is a device to maintain the spatial relationships between your materials, or between your tool and the materials. In this case, I wanted a jig that would allow me to lay my pieces of steel down in a consistent pattern while welding them together.

A jig for my headboard
A jig for my headboard

I thought I was being clever by making only one section of the jig. The idea was that it would keep everything consistent. In hindsight, I should have made a jig of the entire piece. Then I could have dry-fit all the steel before welding it together, and adjusted the pieces individually to ensure they all fit. The way I did it, the piece as a whole ended up just slightly “off”, with the minute inconsistencies in my jig being amplified through repetition. Even someone as talented as me can still have learning lessons.

As you can see in the following photograph, I had to clamp it to make it fit even after adding just a few pieces.

Overcoming the problems with the jig
Overcoming the problems with the jig

I decided to TIG weld this project. In theatre, the majority of welding we do is MIG welding steel. TIG welding is useful if you need to weld stainless steel, aluminum, brass, or if you need to weld two different kinds of metal together. In this case, I was TIG welding regular steel; even though it takes a lot longer, I could weld with little to no filler rod, which left me with very clean welds, and no spatter. I felt it was important for this piece since the cleanliness of the lines was an important part of the design. Plus, I wanted to brush up on my TIG welding skills.

A close up of the welds
A closeup of the welds

Even though I had TIG welded before, I still learned some new things about it. For one, the difference between using Argon and using an Argon/Carbon Dioxide mix is astounding. If you aren’t using pure Argon, you can literally watch impurities form on your tungsten electrode while you weld. Another tip I learned was that it is important to grind your electrode parallel to its direction, as opposed to in circles. TIG welding is so precise and exacting that little piddling tips like these really go a long way. Its actually a very Zen way to weld, if you have the time.

The mostly completed headboard
The mostly completed headboard

Once all the pieces were in place, my next step was to add Bondo to smooth over all the welds and fill all the holes. Bondo will cause nerve damage over time, so you must work with adequate ventilation and wear a respirator with cartridges that filter organic vapors. You should also wear gloves and sleeves to keep it off your skin, as it is a skin sensitizer as well. Remember that even after it hardens, you still need protective equipment while sanding it, as you release dust and fumes that can still harm you. With the proper safety precautions, Bondo is an incredibly versatile material for many projects.

Filled and sanded
Filled and sanded

After I sanded it all down, all that was left was to attach it to the bed, prime it, and paint it.

The finished headboard
The finished headboard

Paper-tearing jig

Our upcoming show requires a large amount of torn pieces of paper. They also live in a working sink throughout the production. As with any paper prop handled roughly by an actor (and especially one that might get wet during the show), we treat it almost like a consumable, with a large amount of back-ups at the ready.

Natalie came up with a quick jig to ease this operation. It’s a small piece of quarter-inch MDF with each edge giving a different “deckled” pattern.

So get out there and tear it up this Friday!